Just like the brakes, a power steering system must be bled anytime you open the system to replace a PS pump, hose or rack. After bleeding the PS system on my 2002 Kia Optima, I recommend the following bleeding protocol suggested by GM.
BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING
Aerated fluid will result in noise from the power steering pump. The system should be bled any time a power steering component has been replaced, a fluid line disconnected, or for moaning and groaning noises. To bleed the power steering system, most technicians just fill the reservoir and turn the wheel from lock to lock. This is not the way GM recommends bleeding their system. Prior to bleeding the system, perform a visual inspection to be certain the hoses are not touching any part of the frame or body which can promote a noise. Make certain all hoses are tight, as a loose connection can allow air to enter the system even though fluid will not leak from the connection.
GM’s Recommended Bleeding Procedure:
1) Ignition switch off.
2) Turn steering wheel full left.
3) Fill fluid reservoir to Full Cold level. Leave
cap off.
4) Raise front wheels off ground.
5) With assistant checking fluid level and
condition, turn steering wheel lock to lock
at least 20 times. Engine remains off.
a) On systems with long return lines or
fluid coolers, turn steering wheel lock
to lock at least 40 times.
b) Trapped air may cause fluid to
overflow. Thoroughly clean any
spilled fluid to allow for leak check.
c) Keep fluid level at Full Cold.
6) While turning wheel, check fluid
constantly.
a) No bubbles are allowed.
b) If bubbles appear, recheck connections.
Repeat step 5.
7) Start engine. With engine idling, maintain
fluid level. Reinstall cap.
8) Return wheels to center position. Lower
front wheels to ground.
9) Keep engine running for two minutes.
10) Turn steering wheel in both directions.
Verify:
a) Smooth power assist
b) Noiseless operation
c) Proper fluid level
d) No leaks
e) No bubbles, foam or fluid
discoloration
11) If all conditions apply, procedure is
complete.
12) If any problems remain, see “Special
Conditions.”
Special Conditions:
1) Foam or bubbles in fluid: Fluid must be
completely free of bubbles. In step 5, be alert
to periodic bubbles that could indicate a
loose connection or leaky O-ring seal.
2) Discolored fluid: Fluid which is milky or tan
in color is an indication of aerated fluid.
Switch ignition off. Wait two minutes and
recheck hose connections. Repeat steps 7-
10. If condition still exists, replace O-ring
seals and clamps. Fill system and repeat
bleed procedure.
3) Pump whine or groan: With the engine running,
recheck hoses for possible contact with
frame, body panels or engine. If no contact is
found, allow fluid to cool down and repressurize
system.
If noise persists, remove and replace the power
steering pump. Repeat the bleeding procedure
following the pump replacement.
Following the procedures illustrated can save you
much frustration and your customer money, plus
you fix the problem the first time around. This keeps
the customer happy and coming back for more
service. A happy customer tells his friends about
your shop and that keeps the bays filled.
Showing posts with label power steering pump. Show all posts
Showing posts with label power steering pump. Show all posts
Saturday, August 14, 2010
Friday, August 13, 2010
Servicing the power steering system (pump, pressure hose, return hose) on a 2002 Kia Optima V6
When I noticed fluid leaking out of the top power steering hose, I had no idea how difficult servicing the power steering system on my 2002 Kia Optima was going to be. It seemed fairly straight forward at first glance so I decided I would save some money and do the repair myself. But, as I am finding out, servicing a Kia Optima is not usually an easy thing to do.
The first problem was that the top "pressure hose" was leaking. I drove around for a few months with this leaking because the Kia Dealership wanted $149.00 for this hose. I thought I would come across a cheaper one but I never did. It seems that Kia keeps a tight grip on its parts and who sells them. During this time, the bottom hose sprung a leak too. What luck I was having. Ultimately I had to buy the parts at a high price from the Kia dealership. This inability to find parts anywhere other than the dealer was my first clue that I was in for a tough time.
So, I ordered the parts at the Kia dealership. They screwed up and ordered the wrong parts for a 4 cylinder instead of the V6 even though I made it a point to tell them TWICE that I had a V6. Ugggghhh! So I had to wait an extra 2 days. Rather, my wife had to bum a ride for an extra two days because of their stupidity at Kia.
Then, when the parts came in, the dealership told me I needed PSF 4 fluid for the power steering system even though I later found that PSF III is recommended for the 2002 Kia Optima. Not a big deal right? Wrong. The PSF 4 is ONLY available at Kia and it cost $19.00 per quart! I needed two quarts. Later, I went back to get a third quart of PSF 4 fluid from the dealership and they told me they were out of it until the following week. The guy behind the counter could tell I was visibly frustrated and he suggested to me that I could use PSF III. Evidently, Valvoline makes a good PSF III fluid and it is only $5.00 per quart at Advance Auto. Again, the Valvoline PSF was recommended directly by the Kia dealership. So, I picked up a few quarts and decided to flush the old PSF 4 out of the system and use the Valvoline.
I purchased a used pump and installed it in place of the original pump. The original pump was probably fine, but it was noisy. I didn't realize at the time that air in the PS lines caused the pump to make a lot of noise. If I had used the original pump, I believe it would have been fine once I got the air out of the system. But, alas, I did install the new pump. It was not difficult to do. Only 2 bolts hold the pump to the engine. You have to remove two 12mm bolts which hold the intake line to the pump. There is also a matter of removing the pulley. I kept it on, but others might want to remove it before removing the pump. It is fairly easy to remove the pulley.
So, with the new pump in place, I replaced the upper "Pressure" hose and the lower "Return" hose on the Kia Optima. I do not exaggerate when I say it was a royal pain in the rear-end. I had so much trouble getting my tools on the various hold-down screws. But, the worst part were the flare-end connections where the hoses connect to the steering rack. I used a flare end wrench, but there was so little room, I could only turn the wrench about 20 degrees before I had to readjust the position of the wrench. It took forever.
Getting the hoses off seemed difficult enough, but putting the new ones on proved to be an exercise in patience. Again, there is so little room where these hoses go that it is nearly impossible to get the hoses exactly where they need to be. I strongly recommend you get a second person to help you put the hoses back on. Working by myself, it took me about 3 hours to get the hoses in position. Later, I would need to remove them and reinstall them and I had to go through the entire difficult process again. I was not a happy camper.
Once I had the hoses hooked up, it was time to bleed the power steering system to get the air out of the lines. Anytime you crack open any portion of a PS system, whether it is a hose, the pump or the steering rack itself, the system must be bled of air. Bleeding the system was a very difficult thing to do on the Kia Optima. Though it takes only an hour or so on most cars, it took me several days to get it done right. No matter how much I bled the system, I kept finding air in bubbles in the reservoir. I eventually had to remove the hoses and reinstall them because I suspected I was leaking air into the system. It was a nightmare.
Anyway, the Kia manual says the proper way to bleed a system is to jack both sides of the front end and put the car on jackstands so the tires are off the ground. This will make it easier to turn the wheels from side to side. And that is just what you do. With the reservoir filled with PS fluid to the minimum to full lines, and with the car off, turn the wheels side to side a total of 40 times. A turn to the left is 1 time. A turn to the right is 1 time, etc. AGAIN, DO NOT CRANK THE CAR DURING THE BLEEDING PROCESS. YOU DON'T WANT TO CRANK THE CAR UNTIL ALL THE AIR IS OUT OF THE SYSTEM. AIR CAUSES FRICTION IN THE RACK AND PUMP AND CAN CAUSE DAMAGE IF YOU CRANK THE CAR WITH AIR STILL IN THE SYSTEM.
Stop every 10 times or so and check the fluid level in the reservoir. The fluid level may drop, just make sure it does not drop too low. If it gets too low, air will get sucked into the system and you will need to repeat the procedure.
So, 40 turns, left AND right, all the way to the locks. Checking every 10 times or so to make sure the fluid level is not too low. After 40 times, check the reservoir for fluid bubbles. Actually, it is best to have a friend turn the wheel while you watch the reservoir. If you see medium to large air bubbles coming in from the return line (front of reservoir) then there is air in the system. If you continue to see bubbles, let the car rest for about 20-30 minutes and then repeat the 40 turns again. Do this procedure until no bubbles are present. If you can't seem to get the bubbles out, check your connections on your hoses and make sure they are tight. Torque down the pump bolts to their proper ft lbs. Then continue on with the bleeding process. Sometimes, the bleeding process will take several hours of this procedure. In my case, I could not get the air out of the system for days. I bought a hand vacuum pump to assist me. I place the pump over the top of the reservoir and kept 20 hg of vacuum. I did this for about 5-10 minutes at a time and then I would wait 10 minutes. I could see the bubbles leaving the system through the clear vacuum tubing. I did this for about 2-3 hours in addition to the right to left turns of the wheel which I had done earlier. After I was satisfied the bubbles had diminished greatly (the vacuum pump will suck in some air into the reservoir and cause you to think there is still air in the system), I then cranked the car and checked the operation of the PS system. The pump sounded quiet. A noisy pump indicates air. I had succeeded because no noise indicates no air. It took me several days and a lot of patience, but finally, the nightmare was over.
To summarize, I suggest you consider your skills and patience before undertaking work on the Kia Optima power steering system. Though I consider myself a slightly above average backyard mechanic, this job was very difficult for me. Good luck.
The first problem was that the top "pressure hose" was leaking. I drove around for a few months with this leaking because the Kia Dealership wanted $149.00 for this hose. I thought I would come across a cheaper one but I never did. It seems that Kia keeps a tight grip on its parts and who sells them. During this time, the bottom hose sprung a leak too. What luck I was having. Ultimately I had to buy the parts at a high price from the Kia dealership. This inability to find parts anywhere other than the dealer was my first clue that I was in for a tough time.
So, I ordered the parts at the Kia dealership. They screwed up and ordered the wrong parts for a 4 cylinder instead of the V6 even though I made it a point to tell them TWICE that I had a V6. Ugggghhh! So I had to wait an extra 2 days. Rather, my wife had to bum a ride for an extra two days because of their stupidity at Kia.
I purchased a used pump and installed it in place of the original pump. The original pump was probably fine, but it was noisy. I didn't realize at the time that air in the PS lines caused the pump to make a lot of noise. If I had used the original pump, I believe it would have been fine once I got the air out of the system. But, alas, I did install the new pump. It was not difficult to do. Only 2 bolts hold the pump to the engine. You have to remove two 12mm bolts which hold the intake line to the pump. There is also a matter of removing the pulley. I kept it on, but others might want to remove it before removing the pump. It is fairly easy to remove the pulley.
So, with the new pump in place, I replaced the upper "Pressure" hose and the lower "Return" hose on the Kia Optima. I do not exaggerate when I say it was a royal pain in the rear-end. I had so much trouble getting my tools on the various hold-down screws. But, the worst part were the flare-end connections where the hoses connect to the steering rack. I used a flare end wrench, but there was so little room, I could only turn the wrench about 20 degrees before I had to readjust the position of the wrench. It took forever.
Getting the hoses off seemed difficult enough, but putting the new ones on proved to be an exercise in patience. Again, there is so little room where these hoses go that it is nearly impossible to get the hoses exactly where they need to be. I strongly recommend you get a second person to help you put the hoses back on. Working by myself, it took me about 3 hours to get the hoses in position. Later, I would need to remove them and reinstall them and I had to go through the entire difficult process again. I was not a happy camper.
Once I had the hoses hooked up, it was time to bleed the power steering system to get the air out of the lines. Anytime you crack open any portion of a PS system, whether it is a hose, the pump or the steering rack itself, the system must be bled of air. Bleeding the system was a very difficult thing to do on the Kia Optima. Though it takes only an hour or so on most cars, it took me several days to get it done right. No matter how much I bled the system, I kept finding air in bubbles in the reservoir. I eventually had to remove the hoses and reinstall them because I suspected I was leaking air into the system. It was a nightmare.
Anyway, the Kia manual says the proper way to bleed a system is to jack both sides of the front end and put the car on jackstands so the tires are off the ground. This will make it easier to turn the wheels from side to side. And that is just what you do. With the reservoir filled with PS fluid to the minimum to full lines, and with the car off, turn the wheels side to side a total of 40 times. A turn to the left is 1 time. A turn to the right is 1 time, etc. AGAIN, DO NOT CRANK THE CAR DURING THE BLEEDING PROCESS. YOU DON'T WANT TO CRANK THE CAR UNTIL ALL THE AIR IS OUT OF THE SYSTEM. AIR CAUSES FRICTION IN THE RACK AND PUMP AND CAN CAUSE DAMAGE IF YOU CRANK THE CAR WITH AIR STILL IN THE SYSTEM.
Stop every 10 times or so and check the fluid level in the reservoir. The fluid level may drop, just make sure it does not drop too low. If it gets too low, air will get sucked into the system and you will need to repeat the procedure.
So, 40 turns, left AND right, all the way to the locks. Checking every 10 times or so to make sure the fluid level is not too low. After 40 times, check the reservoir for fluid bubbles. Actually, it is best to have a friend turn the wheel while you watch the reservoir. If you see medium to large air bubbles coming in from the return line (front of reservoir) then there is air in the system. If you continue to see bubbles, let the car rest for about 20-30 minutes and then repeat the 40 turns again. Do this procedure until no bubbles are present. If you can't seem to get the bubbles out, check your connections on your hoses and make sure they are tight. Torque down the pump bolts to their proper ft lbs. Then continue on with the bleeding process. Sometimes, the bleeding process will take several hours of this procedure. In my case, I could not get the air out of the system for days. I bought a hand vacuum pump to assist me. I place the pump over the top of the reservoir and kept 20 hg of vacuum. I did this for about 5-10 minutes at a time and then I would wait 10 minutes. I could see the bubbles leaving the system through the clear vacuum tubing. I did this for about 2-3 hours in addition to the right to left turns of the wheel which I had done earlier. After I was satisfied the bubbles had diminished greatly (the vacuum pump will suck in some air into the reservoir and cause you to think there is still air in the system), I then cranked the car and checked the operation of the PS system. The pump sounded quiet. A noisy pump indicates air. I had succeeded because no noise indicates no air. It took me several days and a lot of patience, but finally, the nightmare was over.
To summarize, I suggest you consider your skills and patience before undertaking work on the Kia Optima power steering system. Though I consider myself a slightly above average backyard mechanic, this job was very difficult for me. Good luck.
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Noisy Power Steering Pump
2002 Kia Optima
2.7 L V6, Automatic Transmission
172,000 miles
----------------------------
While checking the automatic transmission fluid level this morning, I noticed a noise coming from the passenger side of the engine near the serpentine belt. I was able to isolate it audibly to be coming from the power steering pump which is the top pulley on the 2002 Kia Optima with V6.
After some visual inspection, I noticed a fluid leaking or present on a hose which connected to the PS pump. I then checked the fluid reservoir and found it to be very low. Obviously there is a PS fluid leak on this car. This left me with two questions;
1. Is the leak coming from the PS pump or the pressure hose which connects to the pump?
2. If I top off the fluid in the PS fluid reservoir, will this make the grinding sound go away.
The first order of business was to top of the PS fluid. I went to a local AutoZone and got a clear PS fluid (Manual recommends PSF-3 or III, but it is not available). Shop recommends a clear alternative fluid.
I topped of the reservoir and drove home. I could still hear the rattling sound coming from the PS pump on the drive home. I let the car sit at idle and popped the hood to verify. I decided to move onto other business and to come back to check later.
After the car sat for a couple of hours, I cranked it again to listen for the sound. It appears to be gone. While the car was running, I turned the steering wheels all the way left and all the way right a couple of times to get the fluid pumping. The sound did not return.
I was, however, able to identify a certain source of the leak. It was coming at the proximal end of the PS pressure hose near the pump itself. So, likely I will just need to replace the pressure hose.
2.7 L V6, Automatic Transmission
172,000 miles
----------------------------
While checking the automatic transmission fluid level this morning, I noticed a noise coming from the passenger side of the engine near the serpentine belt. I was able to isolate it audibly to be coming from the power steering pump which is the top pulley on the 2002 Kia Optima with V6.
After some visual inspection, I noticed a fluid leaking or present on a hose which connected to the PS pump. I then checked the fluid reservoir and found it to be very low. Obviously there is a PS fluid leak on this car. This left me with two questions;
1. Is the leak coming from the PS pump or the pressure hose which connects to the pump?
2. If I top off the fluid in the PS fluid reservoir, will this make the grinding sound go away.
The first order of business was to top of the PS fluid. I went to a local AutoZone and got a clear PS fluid (Manual recommends PSF-3 or III, but it is not available). Shop recommends a clear alternative fluid.
I topped of the reservoir and drove home. I could still hear the rattling sound coming from the PS pump on the drive home. I let the car sit at idle and popped the hood to verify. I decided to move onto other business and to come back to check later.
After the car sat for a couple of hours, I cranked it again to listen for the sound. It appears to be gone. While the car was running, I turned the steering wheels all the way left and all the way right a couple of times to get the fluid pumping. The sound did not return.
I was, however, able to identify a certain source of the leak. It was coming at the proximal end of the PS pressure hose near the pump itself. So, likely I will just need to replace the pressure hose.
Armed with this information (visible, dripping leak on high pressure hose and grinding sound is gone after topping off PS fluid reservoir), I am now confident enough to order a power steering high pressure hose for this car. I am fairly confident that the pump itself remains in good shape. I will watch this car for a couple of days before committing to this, just to be sure.
Below is a stock photo of the high pressure hose which I will need to replace.
A post above explains in detail the process I used to replace the Pressure Hose (top), Return Hose (bottom) and the Power Steering Pump.
How to change serpentine belt on a 2002 Kia Optima
2002 Kia Optima
2.7 Liter V6
You may need a belt tensioner tool to release the tension on the belt so that it can be removed. Or, if you are lucky like me, your tensioner will have a 3/8" square peg near the end which allows you to put a 3/8" ratchet in there to release the tension. Pushing down towards the floor releases the tension.
WARNING: When you remove the belt from around one of the pulleys, this puts all of the force back onto the tensioner. You will not notice it at first but as you slowly allow the tensioner to come back up, it will travel farther up than when you started. There is not much space and it is easy to injure your hand. So be careful!!
2. A socket with a breaker bar, or sometimes just the breaker bar itself (on a belt tensioner with a square drive to release tension), can be used a lot of times. Sometimes there is no room to get these tools in there and you will have to use a serpentine belt tool to release the tension. It's a free loan-a-tool at Autozone. Probably easier just to get one in the first place, while you are getting the belt. It has a nice long handle for good leverage.
3. Release the tension on the belt and hold the tool with one hand, while taking the belt off with the other hand. The Power Steering pulley is on top and that is the one I remove the belt from. Release the tool you are using to hold the belt tensioner (slowly, it's a strong spring).
4. Put the new belt on using the belt routing diagram. Put it on over every pulley except one. Pull the tensioner loose again and slip the belt over the last pulley and let the tool go. You are pretty much done. Just check to make sure the belt is seated in all the pulleys correctly before starting. I usually "bump" the starter a couple of times before starting it, just to help seat the belt.
2.7 Liter V6
You may need a belt tensioner tool to release the tension on the belt so that it can be removed. Or, if you are lucky like me, your tensioner will have a 3/8" square peg near the end which allows you to put a 3/8" ratchet in there to release the tension. Pushing down towards the floor releases the tension.
WARNING: When you remove the belt from around one of the pulleys, this puts all of the force back onto the tensioner. You will not notice it at first but as you slowly allow the tensioner to come back up, it will travel farther up than when you started. There is not much space and it is easy to injure your hand. So be careful!!
1. Check to see if there is a belt routing diagram sticker under the hood, if not, draw one yourself. IF YOU FORGET THIS STEP, YOU MAY FIND IT DIFFICULT TO REPLACE THE BELT CORRECTLY. The routing can be a major pain in the behind if you forget how the belt goes and nothing to reference it by.
2. A socket with a breaker bar, or sometimes just the breaker bar itself (on a belt tensioner with a square drive to release tension), can be used a lot of times. Sometimes there is no room to get these tools in there and you will have to use a serpentine belt tool to release the tension. It's a free loan-a-tool at Autozone. Probably easier just to get one in the first place, while you are getting the belt. It has a nice long handle for good leverage.
3. Release the tension on the belt and hold the tool with one hand, while taking the belt off with the other hand. The Power Steering pulley is on top and that is the one I remove the belt from. Release the tool you are using to hold the belt tensioner (slowly, it's a strong spring).
4. Put the new belt on using the belt routing diagram. Put it on over every pulley except one. Pull the tensioner loose again and slip the belt over the last pulley and let the tool go. You are pretty much done. Just check to make sure the belt is seated in all the pulleys correctly before starting. I usually "bump" the starter a couple of times before starting it, just to help seat the belt.
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